Popular souqs: who buys and who comes to look?

The old markets are still standing, but their customers have changed. What does it mean for a souq to become a destination?

Faisal Alotaibi
Faisal Alotaibi A social anthropologist researching shifts in tribal identity in the contemporary Saudi context.

Every Saudi city has an old souq still in business: Souq Al-Zal in Riyadh, the markets of Al-Balad in Jeddah, Al-Qaysariyah in Al-Ahsa. With the arrival of the malls the role of these markets changed: they are no longer where everything is bought, but places you go to for one particular thing — or to look.

The souq as theatre

When a souq becomes a destination, the seller’s own performance changes: he explains more, allows photographs, and presents the object as a story rather than a commodity. That is a shift worth documenting rather than lamenting.

Who stays?

What remains in the old souq are the customers who do not go to malls: the elderly, the craftspeople who buy their materials there, and whoever is looking for something not sold anywhere else. They are the ones who keep the souq a souq.

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A social anthropologist researching shifts in tribal identity in the contemporary Saudi context.

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